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Wiring Diagram - Question for Simon
March 31, 2016
1:09 pm
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Loudoun Zero
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Simon, thanks for the help on this.

See below for further questions, posted above but this time I have checked the indicator circuits and sussed out what's what, all good now I reckon.

On the Column Switches, didn't see an answer on these two:
* RH wiper switch Ford ID 165. PIN 53a. Black Violet. No pin exists on my switches.
* Dash gauges. Ignition live. White (thin). to Fuse Board. No cable present.

Additional Loom questions:
* I have 3 wires at the brake light hydraulic switch. 1 brown which goes to the brake light and 2 whites. 1 off white goes to the fuse box, can you advise on the other white one.
* Should there be wires to connect the radiator fan to something, presume the water temp switch?

Also:
* Do Kit Spares supply the mounting bracket for the relay holder and fuse box?
* When using the speedo sensor....
http://www.kitspares.co.uk/ind.....038;car=43
....do you need some kind of pick up on the diff flange?

Thanks again Simon.
Cheers
Andrew

March 31, 2016
7:35 pm
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Simon
GBS Technical
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53a would go to the rear wiper relay, as its missing your switches probably came from a saloon
White is the ignition feed to the dash, but it is possible that you have a an odd loom, have you a green wire.

Brown? or brown black?
I think you will find one of those white wires exits the loom further to the rear. It was one of the few looms that were able to use a rear electric fuel pump, if you don't need the pump just connect the wire from the front. If you do I would advise an inertia cut out is fitted in the wire from the switch to the pump, and you will have to connect the white wire together in the same terminal.

No wiring for the fan, you will need a thermo switch.

Relay holder should have mounts, fuse board is usually mounted using a spare piece of alloy, or on spacers or through a hole cut in the scuttle.

That page doesn't come up, my guess its the three wire sender, NOT the two wire. The three wire works by sensing the bolt heads of the diff to prop flange. There is only one wire back to the dash so you will need to pick up a live from the brake light switch and find an earth. There is a sensor holding bracket avalible from parts, remember to tell them you have the early tunnel. Two wire will need magnets fitted to flange, and another wire running to the front, AND the correct gauge to power it.

July 24, 2016
8:56 pm
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Loudoun Zero
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Hi Simon, I have another question.....
On the leaflet I received with the battery cable set (ELC 0009), it shows the positive battery cable going to the fuseboard. The only fuse 'board' I have is per the photo here:
http://loudounzero.blogspot.co.....board.html
I can't see anywhere obvious to connect this to, can you advise. Am I missing a further part?
Thanks again.
Andrew
Smile

July 24, 2016
9:09 pm
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Simon
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No you are not missing anything, you just have the old loom. The Battery lead kit is intended for the new loom.

The main battery cable goes from battery + to starter, the BROWN wires at the starter then feed the rest of the loom. the other is battery - to chassis.

So the Battery to ground, and engine ground will work OK, the alternator to starter should not be required, you have browns at the alternator?. you will have to check the battery + to starter wire for length if you are going to hide it through the firewall, the early loom had it go directly from battery to starter, does not look proffesional, hence the change in routing.

July 25, 2016
7:06 pm
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Loudoun Zero
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Great thanks yet again Simon.
I do have brown wires at the alternator.
I'll check the length for the wire routing through the firewall, I have the terminals at the front of the battery so will route them 'inboard and back into the firewall. Think it'll be long enough though.
Cheers!
Andrew Smile

May 16, 2018
12:25 am
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Loudoun Zero
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Hi Simon,
I am on the home straight so looking to get the IVA booked ASAP. Smile
Where would I identify which DVLA sites actually do this test, don't think they all do.
Also, upon installing my headlights (standard 7" bowls and H4 lamps), the lamps don't clamp up properly into the bowls, the clamp doesn't grab the lamp enough and there is a small amount of side to side movement, but worse still, around 2-3mm fore to aft movement......have you ever experienced this and if so, how was it resolved. Thanks once again in advance.
Andrew

May 16, 2018
9:08 am
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paulcatchpole
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May 16, 2018
1:34 pm
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Simon
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locations answered above, thank you Paul.

Headlights

This will sound like, and is, a bodge Confused but it works, and does not cost.

find a real of insulating tape and have it in reach whilst you do the rest, a second pair of hands are useful.
Offer up the headlight lenses to the headlight bowl.
make sure the lens pegs fit the slots in the bowl.
hold the lens in place.
run the insulating tape around the lens edge so that it bridges the gap between lens and bowl.
couple of times around should be enough
lens should now hold.
you can fit the locking ring to hide everything Laugh

May 16, 2018
3:26 pm
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Mitch
Gloucester cgmitch@gmail.com
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I had the same on my lights. I bought some of that car cloth tape and wrapped the light unit in it and also a single layer around the inside of the clip that hold the light into the bowl. This both secured it and stopped it rattling.

May 16, 2018
5:35 pm
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Marlin
Willits, California, USA
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Another version of the above is to take a piece of the small black rubber trim (stuff used on inside edge of boot shroud) and run it around the locking ring that contacts the lens. Holds tight and gives a nice black edge to the ring. Smile

Boy this is an old thread

Zero GT Mazda(1.8LVVT) ordered Nov 9 '15, arrived Apr 15 '16,

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