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Starting from Zero
September 22, 2017
3:22 pm
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therealbil
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April 18, 2017
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Hi all. I started my Zetec powered Zero build a couple of months ago now.

My blog is....

http://www.zerobills.blogspot.co.uk

September 22, 2017
7:53 pm
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Simon
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Quick look at your blog, I have no idea how people have the time to build a car, have a life and write a blog, so my hat is off to you.

good job the dampers are only trial fitted, they are up side down
fire wall site on top of battery landing panel not under it, you can then remove the scuttle as one piece
hand brake will not pull efficiency for IVA in that position
you want standard washers under bolt heads and nuts, not shim washers although they to may be temporary.
I am not a lover of conduit around things, and the testers have pulled it off to have a look as to what it hides, it is also not necessary, although I suspect the picture relates to the length of pipe under the boot floor which does need some sort of extra support with the length of the run.

GBS have informed you correctly about shim washers, have you "set" the eye tube length?

Cant remember if Ben or Keith came up with the handbrake cable shield plate, the earlier chassis did not need it even with the unmodified compensator, but when the tunnel was tapered it got quite tight in there hence the plate

I must stress I am NOT criticising your build, it looks like it is coming together well, it is just easier to put things right now rather than later, and I will also venture to say cheaper.

Build blogs are wonderful, as is the advice from some "other" web sites, but please, just be wary you are not perpetuating a build error.

September 22, 2017
10:01 pm
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nelmo
Surrey
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Simon said
good job the dampers are only trial fitted, they are up side down

Er... is that just for the ATR dampers - my Gaz ones are that way round as well....

September 23, 2017
6:45 am
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Simon
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There are other dampers out there, not just Gaz and ATR.

It is the damper rate adjuster that usually tells you which way is up.

The Gaz damper is a nearld knob on the side of the body of the damper which should be at the lower end of the damper. The ATR has its adjuster around the damper shaft which again should be at the bottom.

Looks wrong, but the idea is the same as upside down forks on a bike, less un-sprung weight.

September 29, 2017
9:39 am
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therealbil
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Thanks for that Simon. I'm a complete newbie so will proberly be making a fair few more mistakes as i go along! Could you give me a bit more info on the handbrake cable please and I'mnot sure what you mean about setting the "eye tube" length.....

September 29, 2017
1:51 pm
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Simon
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You must NEVER consider it as a mistake, building a kit car is a learning curve for anyone, and some things are trial and error. without any feed back how do you know you have made the right decision OR any blog you are religiously following has not made the same basic error.

Eye tubes. Some may say I have a bit of a thing about them, but in my opinion it is important the suspension works correctly.

The build is quite straight forward, you press pre shaped "top hat" bushes into tubes at the end of a wishbone, those tubes are cut with a chop saw, before being welded and powder coated, there will be of very similar, but not identical measurements. The bushes are CNC cut and are near identical, but can distort and flatten when forced into the tube. so we can not be precise with the assembly size from one bush face to another.

The "eye tube" must be the same or very similar to the face to face measurement. If to long the bush can slide along the eye tube, if to short assembly will be pinched and resist movement.

You need to "set" the eye tube length to the same distance between faces of the bushes. I generally aimed for a 0 to +.2 mm tolerance.but you could go slightly longer without to much determent. To short should be avoided at all costs, as the sides of the bracket will stop free movement and could over stress the chassis. Slackening the bolt is NOT an option as the eye tube will then rotate around the bolt rather than the eye tube being locked and the bush rotating around the eye tube.

I would stress that there have been some improvements in manufacture, there was a time that the tube could be 4-5 mm longer than needed, and they are now generally much closer, but with all the variables noted above they can never be exact.So I believe setting is still important

October 2, 2017
8:44 am
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therealbil
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Thanks again Simon. I've refitted tthe shocks the correct way up and will tackle the washers vs shim washers issue at the weekend. I will also correct my blog as I can definatly see your point about being mis-led, indeed that may well be the reason that I slipped up! I'm doing a factory visit on wednesday, so plan to take lots of pics andSmile ask lots of questions. Last visit i picked up the kit and feel like i didn't really know what to ask etc.....
Could you give me more info re the handbrake as you mentioned that it wouldn't meet iva as it is at the moment...

Cheers

Bill

October 2, 2017
1:42 pm
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Simon
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The short hand brake, does look far better than re using the Sierra unit.

Its length however means that you have not the same mechanic advantage when applying the handbrake. As the lever is also situated just below your arm you also have a mechanical disadvantage applying the handbrake, made worse if you need the seat anywhere than fully back.

This loss makes it touch and go when measuring the brake efficiency at IVA, especially with new brakes, so any improvement to the amount of force you can apply is of benefit.

By lifting the pull cable to the upper hole you regain much of what you lost with the smaller lever, although it means that the cable must be carefully adjusted to avoid fee play, efficiency is easier to achieve.

October 2, 2017
2:04 pm
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nelmo
Surrey
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I do not understand how anyone can achieve the efficiency needed for IVA.

On the day before my IVA, I went to a MOT centre who tested my handbrake and said it was 26% efficient (needs to be 18% for IVA, in theory). However, one of my first test failure points was the handbrake.

On my re-test, the bloke allowed me to adjust the handbrake and I eventually had to tighten it up so much that I couldn't push the car with the handbrake supposedly off. Only like that did it 'pass' the IVA.

I reversed out of the test bay with a horrible burning smell from my pads and then, as soon as the tester had turned his back, I reset it back to how it had been. After many hill starts since then, I can confirm it is easily up to the job even though, strictly, it would fail IVA if I had to re-test now. Confused

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